The tradition of preserving meats is one of the oldest of all the food arts. Nevertheless, the craft charcuterie movement has captured the modern imagination, with scores of charcuteries opening across the country in recent years, and none is so well-loved and highly regarded as the San Francisco Bay Area s Fatted Calf.
In this much-anticipated debut cookbook, Fatted Calf co-owners and founders Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller present an unprecedented array of meaty goods, with recipes for salumi, pates, roasts, sausages, confits, and everything in between. A must-have for the meat-loving home cook, DIY-types in search of a new pantry project, and professionals looking to broaden their repertoire, "In the Charcuterie"boasts more than 125 recipes and fully-illustrated instructions for making brined, smoked, cured, skewered, braised, rolled, tied, and stuffed meats at home, plus a primer on whole animal butchery.
Take your meat cooking to the next level: Start with a whole hog middle, stuff it with a piquant array of herbs and spices, then roll it, tie it, and roast it for a ridiculously succulent, gloriously porky take on porchetta called The Cuban. Or, brandy your own prunes at home to stuff a decadent, caul fat lined Duck Terrine. If it s sausage you crave, follow Boetticher and Miller s step-by-step instructions for grinding, casing, linking, looping, and smoking your own homemade Hot Links or Kolbasz.
With its impeccably tested recipes and lush, full-color photography, this instructive and inspiring tome is destined to become the go-to reference on charcuterie and a treasure for anyone fascinated by the art of cooking with and preserving meat."
Publishers Weekly® Reviews
- Reviewed in: Publishers Weekly, page .
- Review Date: 2013-06-03
- Reviewer: Staff
Boetticher and Miller are a match made in hog heaven. Having met at the Culinary Institute of America, the couple worked at several Bay Area restaurants before establishing the Fatted Calf charcuterie in San Francisco in 2003. There they provide a variety of cured-meat wonders and offer classes such as “Pig, Woman, Knife” and “All About Duck.” They bring their work to the page here with photo-enhanced instructions on butchering, rendering fat, properly aging salami, and the like. Over the course of 125 recipes, they explore stand-alone vittles like pork sausage, corned beef, headcheese, and a soup stock made with ginger, chilies, and 12 pounds of duck and pork bones, as well as offering many a hot dinner entrée. A chapter titled “Skewered, Rolled, Tied, and Stuffed” features options like fig- and sausage-stuffed quails, and grilled rabbit skewers with chicories, olives, and almonds. Among the spicier selections are goat shoulder; birria, which is a Mexican stew (birria literally means “mess”); and a Oaxacan-style chorizo that calls for four types of chilies. It perhaps takes a butcher’s mind-set to see meat loaf as a “classic American paté,” but there can be no arguing with the authors’ ménage of sirloin and pork, served with a ketchup-based cocktail sauce. (Sept.)