Publishers Weekly® Reviews
- Reviewed in: Publishers Weekly, page .
- Review Date: 2015-11-02
- Reviewer: Staff
Werner and Henry, the couple behind the highly acclaimed Hartwood restaurant in Tulum, Mexico, share the dishes that put them on the culinary map in this vivid and appetizing collection. The restaurant cooks off the grid without electricity; many of the dishes are started on the grill and then finished in a wood-burning oven. The recipes dont require complicated techniques or precision but still manage to remain savory and complex with layers of flavor, thanks to a well-stocked pantry that the authors describe in detail. Recipes are a blend of the familiar and the unusual, such as grilled nopales salad with queso cotija and chilled avocado soup with epazote. Adventurous cooks will enjoy blistered plátanos with honey; ceviche de aguja with ginger and mezcal; and grilled calamari salad. Gorgeous full-color photographs greatly enhance the collection, making the foreign seem more familiar and tempting would-be chefs to give these mouthwatering meals a try. Sidebars on seasoning offer valuable insight for those cooking the Hartwood way. The authors also offer up a tasty array of las bebibas, wonderful tropical cocktails that include passion in the jungle (made with mint, passion fruit juice, and rum) and the restaurants signature drink, the Hartwood, which combines whiskey with lime and ginger juice. Vibrant flavors dominate this warm and welcoming collection, bringing the local tastes of the Yucatán region into the home kitchen. (Oct.)
Cooking: Gourmet gifts galore
If there’s a super-serious cook on your holiday gift list, NOPI: The Cookbook, Yotam Ottolenghi and Ramael Scully’s ode to their latest restaurant in London’s West End, should be your pick. Though this is restaurant food—complex dishes designed to be made by a team of pros—the recipes here have been somewhat simplified so that the courageous home cook can take on the challenge and serve up a reasonable facsimile of a NOPI creation. Just make sure your lucky giftee invites you over for Scallops with Corn and Merguez Salsa and Sorrel Sauce or Baked Blue Cheese Cake with Pickled Beets and Honey.
Curious cooks will be thrilled with J. Kenji López-Alt’s The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science. An MIT-trained nerd with a passion for food (a ferd?), López-Alt believes that only by understanding the scientific principles that underlie what ingredients do when exposed to different techniques will you become a freer, more fluent cook. This may be serious food science, but with more than 300 recipes and 1,000 step-by-step photos seasoned with the author’s charm, wit and clear, patient explanations, it’s revelatory fun.
For lovers of la cucina Italiana, Lidia’s Mastering the Art of Italian Cuisine promises to serve up “everything you need to know to be a great Italian cook.” And matriarch Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and her daughter, Tanya Bastianich Manuali, keep their word. With 400 recipes from appetizers to desserts, plus in-depth info on Italian ingredients and cooking techniques, this is her most comprehensive Italian cookbook yet and the book every Lidia fan should have.
Drawn to the more exotic? Yearning for crunchy, fragrant Fried Sesame Pork Tenderloin or lightly sauced Kung Pao Chicken as it’s served in Sichuan? Then Kian Lam Kho’s lusciously illustrated Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees is just right. He has organized the book by cooking methods, rather than by region or ingredient, giving you the gastronomic essentials you need to master these exquisitely varied Chinese dishes—for everyday meals or for more elaborate feasts.
TOP PICK IN COOKBOOKS
Hartwood is a trip—a glorious culinary adventure to the edge of the Yucatán jungle and the delicious edge of contemporary cuisine. Eric Werner and Mya Henry left their restaurant jobs in Manhattan to follow a dream that turned into a restaurant open to the tropical night, serving their unique take on dazzling, wood-fueled, Mexican-infused dishes. Beautifully photographed and compellingly written, Hartwood is their celebration of the “love project” they’ve created. You can make and savor these 88 recipes (almost all the ingredients are obtainable in the U.S.) or you can luxuriate in armchair cooking and dream along with Werner and Henry.