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New York in a Dozen Dishes
by Robert Sietsema and James Gulliver Hancock


Overview - Join New York City s most intrepid eater Robert Sietsema, pioneer of outer-boroughs dining in an urban adventure like none other. Through essays on the city s defining dishes, some familiar, others obscure, Robert paints a portrait of New York s food landscape past and present, and shares a life spent uncovering the delicious foods of the five boroughs.  Read more...

 
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More About New York in a Dozen Dishes by Robert Sietsema; James Gulliver Hancock
 
 
 
Overview
Join New York City s most intrepid eater Robert Sietsema, pioneer of outer-boroughs dining in an urban adventure like none other. Through essays on the city s defining dishes, some familiar, others obscure, Robert paints a portrait of New York s food landscape past and present, and shares a life spent uncovering the delicious foods of the five boroughs.

Gobble up a century of New York pizza, from the coal-fired pies of a thriving Little Italy to the slice joints of a burgeoning rock n roll East Village. Discover Katz s Delicatessen as Robert did, on a foray into the hardscrabble Lower East Side of the 1970s. Take Robert s hand and he ll bring you through the Mexican taquerias of Bushwick with their papalo leaves and piled-high sandwiches then visit the underground Senegalese dining scene hidden in plain sight in 1990s Times Square. See the evolution of New York fried chicken from Harlem s spare, ancient style to the battered-and-brined birds of hipster Brooklyn. Hunt with Robert for Hangtown fry and a vanishing Chinese-American cuisine, and follow him as he ferrets out the city s most elusive foods, including the Ecuadorian guinea pig.
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Details
  • ISBN-13: 9780544454316
  • ISBN-10: 0544454316
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin
  • Publish Date: May 2015
  • Page Count: 304
  • Dimensions: 8.12 x 5.84 x 0.83 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 0.92 pounds


Related Categories

Books > Cooking > History
Books > Business & Economics > Industries - Hospitality, Travel & Tourism

 
Publishers Weekly Reviews

Publishers Weekly® Reviews

  • Reviewed in: Publishers Weekly, page .
  • Review Date: 2015-05-04
  • Reviewer: Staff

Sietsema, former restaurant critic for the Village Voice and author of the food fanzine Down the Hatch, takes a personal journey through New York City fare, exploring how ethnic neighborhoods have formed in the city and changed over the last decades. His book reads like a series of magazine articles, covering iconic foods such as Italian-inspired pizza, Manhattan clam chowder (the tomato-based version evolved from the creamy New England soup has all the markings, he notes, of a Mediterranean dish that probably emerged by the 1960s), and pho (pronounced fuh), the signature beef-and-noodle soup of Vietnamese cooking. Sietsema tackles each dish’s provenance: egg foo yong, a peculiar Chinese American hybrid, was “packaged as a one-course meal aimed at American diners accustomed to the same proportions of protein, grease, and starch in what they considered their normal diet.” Pastrami, that pink brisket-cut brined and spiced meat, turns out to be more Central Asian than strictly Jewish, while now-ubiquitous fried chicken might have originated in West Africa via Iberian mariners in the 16th century. Toward the end, Sietsema reaches too far afield and recommends an obscure chile-gravy sandwich called pambazo as the Mexican specialty (though he rarely even manages to find it) and the South America fried little guinea pig called cuy. Funny, thorough, and a good sport, he might have spared the reader before adding the last chapter on scrambled brains—the choice of the secretive diners in the Organ Meat Society. (May)

 
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