Bad food has a history. Swindled tells it. Through a fascinating mixture of cultural and scientific history, food politics, and culinary detective work, Bee Wilson uncovers the many ways swindlers have cheapened, falsified, and even poisoned our food throughout history.Read more...
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Bad food has a history. Swindled tells it. Through a fascinating mixture of cultural and scientific history, food politics, and culinary detective work, Bee Wilson uncovers the many ways swindlers have cheapened, falsified, and even poisoned our food throughout history. In the hands of people and corporations who have prized profits above the health of consumers, food and drink have been tampered with in often horrifying ways--padded, diluted, contaminated, substituted, mislabeled, misnamed, or otherwise faked. Swindled gives a panoramic view of this history, from the leaded wine of the ancient Romans to today's food frauds--such as fake organics and the scandal of Chinese babies being fed bogus milk powder.
Wilson pays special attention to nineteenth- and twentieth-century America and England and their roles in developing both industrial-scale food adulteration and the scientific ability to combat it. As Swindled reveals, modern science has both helped and hindered food fraudsters--increasing the sophistication of scams but also the means to detect them. The big breakthrough came in Victorian England when a scientist first put food under the microscope and found that much of what was sold as "genuine coffee" was anything but--and that you couldn't buy pure mustard in all of London.
Arguing that industrialization, laissez-faire politics, and globalization have all hurt the quality of food, but also that food swindlers have always been helped by consumer ignorance, Swindled ultimately calls for both governments and individuals to be more vigilant. In fact, Wilson suggests, one of our best protections is simply to reeducate ourselves about the joys of food and cooking.
Publishers Weekly® Reviews
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COLUMNIST AND FOOD WRITER WILSON TAKES READERS TO THE BEGINNING OF THE 19TH CENTURY TO DOCUMENT THE HISTORY OF FOOD ADULTERATION\AT HEART GTWO VERY SIMPLE PRINCIPLES: POISONING AND CHEATING.H CONCENTRATING ON BRITAIN AND THE U.S. (OTHER COUNTRIES, ESPECIALLY FRANCE, NAVIGATED FOOD SUPPLY INDUSTRIALIZATION WITH WISER GOVERNMENT POLICY), WILSON FINDS THE FIRST FOOD CRUSADER IN FREDERICK ACCUM, A GERMAN IMMIGRANT WHO USED CHEMISTRY TO EXPOSE THE DISHONESTY OF LONDON FOOD PURVEYORS IN HIS TREATISE ON ADULTERATIONS OF FOOD AND CULINARY POISONS; SHE FINDS THE FIRST INEFFECTIVE GOVERNMENT RESPONSE IN PARLIAMENT'S COMMITMENT TO LAISSEZ FAIRE ECONOMIC POLICIES OVER CITIZEN SAFETY. IN THE U.S., NEW YORK'S 1850S GSWILL MILKH EPIDEMIC AND CHICAGO'S MEAT PACKING INDUSTRY WOULD EVENTUALLY LEAD TO THE 1906 PURE FOOD AND DRUG ACT\WHICH PROBABLY WOULDN'T HAVE PASSED WITHOUT THE POPULARITY OF UPTON SINCLAIRFS MEAT PACKING EXPOSE THE JUNGLE, AND COULDNFT STOP THE MOST NEFARIOUS AND PREVALENT OF FOOD FRAUDS, THE DEVELOPMENT OF FAKE FOODS: MARGARINE, BABY FORMULA AND THOUSANDS MORE. WILSON FOLLOWS THE ECONOMIC, CULTURAL AND POLITICAL THREADS SKILLFULLY, REPORTING ON DEVELOPMENTS AS RECENT AS THE CHINA BABY FORMULA SCANDAL. PRESCRIBING MORE AWARENESS AND REGULATION, WILSON CONTENDS THAT CONSUMERS AND GOVERNMENTS MUST RECOGNIZE THE CONTINUOUS PRESSURE ON COMPANIES TO MAKE MONEY BY SUBSTITUTING NUTRITIOUS, GENUINE INGREDIENTS WITH ADULTERANTS. TIMELY, WITTY AND PURPOSEFUL, THIS THOROUGH HISTORY SHOULD OPEN A LOT OF EYES, AND CLOSE SOME MOUTHS.
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